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On Sunday, March 16, while out for lunch at Ikemasa-tei in Nishiki Market, the columnist visited Marutune Kamaboko Store, located next to Ikemasa-tei.
As mentioned in the previous Ikemasa-tei column, Nishiki Market no longer retains the atmosphere of the “Kyoyo kitchen” that Kyoto people were accustomed in the past.
No matter which way you turn, all you see are customers from overseas.
I can’t say it too loudly, but the mother of the Ikemasa-tei I mentioned above often says in a hushed voice: “Be very careful. These days, you never know what kind of people might be wandering around Nishiki Market. The Nishiki Market is no longer the Nishiki of old. It has completely changed.”

Nishiki Market Arcade and People Street

Nishiki Market arcade and pedestrian streets

The market has been transformed by the arrival of foreign tourists, and some long-established stores have been forced to close their doors because they are unable to keep up with the times. On the other hand, there are those that have successfully embraced the changes of the times and continue to thrive. The Marutune Kamaboko store I am about to introduce is at the top of such a list.

Kamaboko product shelf

Kamaboko part 1

Kamaboko product shelf

Kamaboko part 2

Kamaboko product shelf

Kamaboko part 3

Kamaboko product shelf

Kamaboko part 4

Kamaboko product shelf

Kamaboko part 5

The Kamaboko tempura lined up here are all products from the Marutune Kamaboko store.
As you can see, there are wide variety of Kamaboko. Although there would be no end to the list if we were to mention every single item, but to introduce some of its best-selling items, it offers a wide variety of creative tempura such as Jaga Butter Tempura, Lily Yuba Maki Tempura, Onion Cheese Tempura, Curry Fried Tempura, and more.
Almost every foreign tourist who passes by the store stops and asks the clerk in one-word Japanese.

“Which items are delicious?”
Then, the shopkeeper replies.
“Well, Jaga Butter Tempura, Lilly Yuba Tempura, Onion Cheese Tempura, all of which are delicious.”

Foreigners who hear this will wander around Nishiki Market buying three or four of the recommended kamaboko tempura and eating them.

The columnist often purchases kamaboko tempura from this store, and I have eaten the almost all of main products. In particular, I recommend Lilly Yuba Tempura, Onion Bacon Tempura, Shiso Cheese Tempura, and Kikurage Tempura.
What was not a big deal for the price was the Jaga Butter Tempura (400 yen).

While creative tempuras with many different varieties stand out, traditional kamaboko tempura such as squid tempura, hiraten tempura, and octopus tempura also seem to sell well in winter.
These tempuras are bought mainly by Japanese people, and Kyoto people in particular, probably because they are ideal for oden seeds.
In this light, Nishiki Market may be said to still fulfill the role of the traditional “kitchen of Kyoto” in some respects.

Nevertheless, it is also true that the prices of Marutune Kamaboko store’s best-selling products have risen spectacularly.
Even in the past few years that the columnist has become a frequent customer, the price of Jaga Butter Tempura and Lilly Yuba Tempura have increased from 290 yen to 400 yen per serving.
Every time I visit this store, it seems to be increasing its selection of creative and unusual tempura dishes that cater to foreign tourists, but on the other hand, it is also true that the prices are no longer affordable for local Kyoto residents to purchase.
It is also a shop that has the unfortunate face that just a little of mending can make your money fly away with wings of 1,500 yen or 2,000 yen.
 

Marutune Kamaboko store

  • Address:
    〒604-8055
    Kyoto City Nakagyo Ward Nishiki Koji Yanagi Banba Higashi Hairu Higashi Uoya town 166
  • TEL: 075-221-2037
  • URL: https://www.kyoto-nishiki.or.jp/stores/marutsune/
  • Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/marutsunekamaboko/
  • Transportation access:
    6-minute walk from Hankyu Kyoto Line Kawaramachi Station exit No.3
    4-minute walk from Subway Karasuma Line Market Station exit No.2
  • Regular holidays:
    No holiday: (From January 1st to 5th, it is closed.)
  • Business hours:
    9:00~17:00
  • Payment methods:
    Cards aren’t acceptable.
    Electronic money isn’t acceptable.
    QR code payment is acceptable.

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