Kyoto mornings begin with the aroma of Inoda Coffee—I finally made it back to the Inoda Coffee flagship store!

Front of Inoda Coffee Main Store

To begin with

One day in December, just past 6 A.M.
I arrived at Inoda Coffee’s flagship store in Sakai-machi Sanjo-sagaru, Nakagyo Ward, for the first time in three years.
At the entrance stands the familiar sign: “Currently preparing. We will open at 7:00 A.M.

“Currently Preparing” sign

Among regulars at Inoda, it’s common knowledge that the “Opens at 7:00 A.M.” sign is actually purely for formalities.

At first glance, the front door appears firmly shut, but…

The columnist, one of the self-proclaimed “regulars from the past,” stuck both hands in to the door gap as before and forced it open with a mighty push.

Then, the door opened silently…
As a result, I was able to enter the store smoothly without incident.

The spacious, open first-floor hall was still dimly lit, but about ten regulars had already settled into their usual tables, reading the morning papers.

I also took my usual seat at Table 9.

What is the essence of Kyoto’s unique coffee culture revealed from the main store?

Inoda Cofffee, a historic establishment that opened in 1940 (Showa 15), will celebrate its 85th anniversary this year (2025). Currently, its locations include this flagship store, along with branches in Kyoto City such as the Sanjo Branch, Shijo Branch, and Porta Branch, as well as branches in other regions like Tokyo, Yokohama, and Hiroshima, bringing the total number of stores to nine.

Each branch has its own unique character and features. For instance, the Shijo branch, located in the business district, offers an extensive food menu and has become almost like a restaurant. Meanwhile, the Sanjo branch, situated right near the main store, features counter seats where you can watch the baristas at work up close, creating a very intimate atmosphere between customers and staff. When it comes to the branches alone, it’s hard to say which one is better.

However, the charm of the main store is in a class all its own.

The first-floor hall

Although everyone would notice as soon as they enter the main store, there are a number of unwritten rules here.
Since establishment, there have been the unique unwritten rules that define the essence of Inoda Coffee’s flagship store which have been cultivated hand in hand by the shop and its regulars.

Let me give you a glimpse of that.

1: Table 5, Reserved for Regulars Only

As briefly mentioned at the start of this column, regulars at the main branch tend to skip waiting for opening time and simply push open the door themselves to enter. However, there are also unspoken rules about where to sit.
For example, “Table 5.”
Even if it happens to be empty, you must not sit down there without permission. If you try to sit there without knowing, other regulars will immediately tell you off. “Ah, you can’t sit there. There’s a specific person who sits there.”

The person monopolizing this seat is Mr. S, who has been coming to the main shop first thing every morning for over 65 years – like the “master of Inoda.”
Mr. S is a townsperson born and raised in the heart of the main branch’s territory.
He runs a barbershop and has been cutting the hair of successive Inoda presidents for many years. He apparently makes it a daily routine to be the first one in the store and staple together the morning newspapers delivered to the store.

Even after drinking one cup of coffee and Mr. S leaves, you still can’t sit at “Table 5.”
Because there’s a second-in-command regular who takes over for Mr. S.
And after that, and the one after that.
Seat number 5 is only available for about an hour, from 11 a.m. to noon.
In the afternoon, it’s reserved for another regular customer’s “seat.”

Though not quite as strict as Table 5, regulars who arrive before opening usually have a strong attachment to their seats, thinking “This is my spot.”

2: No clocks, no music, no payphones

Since its establishment, the main store has had neither clocks nor music. This stems from a policy passed down since the founding president: We want our guests to forget their daily lives and relax comfortably in our establishment.”

Perhaps as a result, there are no payphones inside the store either. Not only that, but there are no customers chattering away on their cell phones either. Here too, one can see the tacit understanding that has gradually developed between the shop and its patrons: that the main store is a place for quiet relaxation.

Once, someone who didn’t know this started talking on their cell phone. Immediately, people around this person started criticizing that person – I have seen this happen.

3: Coffee is generally served with sugar and milk.

Hot coffee

Iced coffee

　
When you order “coffee” at Inoda Coffee, it always comes with sugar and milk.
There’s a reason for this: back in the day when the main shop was frequented by many intellectuals, these lively debaters would often get so engrossed in their discussions that they forgot about their coffee getting cold.
Even when you finally notice the coffee and add sugar and milk, it’s already gone cold and won’t dissolve properly…As a result, the shop staff thoughtfully decided. “Let’s add sugar and mile while it’s still hot,” and began adding sugar and milk right from the start when serving coffee to customers.

Nowadays, if you tell the staff “No sugar, please” when ordering, they’ll naturally bring it without sugar.

4: Hotel-level service is its motto

While it is a café it serves the customers with hotel-level services. This is the motto for the whole Inoda Coffee branches, the employees at the main branch, in particular, do this thoroughly.

Take one example that I actually experienced.
I have fond of cold water served at Inoda Coffee (it’s mild and delicious), and in early days of 3 or 4 years ago when I frequented to this Inodo Coffee, I ordered to have I refilled many times.
Then, when I visited there five times or so, the shop clerk got to carry 4 or 5 glasses of cold water together at some intervals.
　

The glasses of cold water

　
After a while, they bring over a stack of new glasses of cold water and silently replaced the old ones.
I was always impressed by how perfectly timed it was, and how well they understood my preferences and wishes.

This time, I revisited the place after three years, and to my surprise, the staff brought me refills of cold water at exactly the same time as before. When I said that in surprise, one of the staff members replied very politely, “We do remember our regular customers.”

After a few visits, all staff members share and remember each customer’s preferences and habits. This subtle service is what captivates customers and keeps them coming back.

The main branch’s specialty menu: “Kyoto Breakfast”

At the main branch, a specialty menu is available from opening at 7:00 A.M. until 11:00 A.M.
It is the “Kyoto Breakfast” (1,830 yen) set, featuring a late, bread, fresh juice, and coffee.

Kyoto Breakfast Plate

The plate features two slices of roasted boneless ham, fluffy scrambled eggs, a colorful vegetable salad (asparagus, cherry tomatoes, glazed carrots, cucumber, lettuce, shredded cabbage), and an orange.
The boneless ham is generously sliced thick—two slices of special ham from Ham Kobo Jiro in Chigasaki, Kanagawa Prefecture—offering a satisfyingly hearty bite.
The fluffy scrambled eggs also have a gentle, smooth texture.

The accompanied croissants

Among all the croissants you’ll find at various shops, Inoda Coffee’s flavor is truly exceptional.
Especially when you order this menu item right after opening, the croissant that arrives is piping hot, crispy, and exceptionally delicious.
You’ll want seconds even if it costs extra.
(Unfortunately, it seems you can’t get a second croissant.)

Fresh Orange Juice

When you order this menu, the first thing you’ll taste is this orange juice. It’s not overly sweet and very delicious, but unfortunately the portion size is a bit small.

Iced Coffee

You may choose either hot or ice, according to your preference.
They use Inoda Coffee’s signature “Arabian Pearl” beans.

“Kyoto mornings begin with the aroma of Inoda Coffee.” — This flagship store’s exclusive menu, “Kyoto Breakfast,” perfectly embodies the long-cherished catchphrase passed down through the years.
The sight of the plate, bread, juice, and coffee all together gives an impression of hotel-level luxury.

It’s easy to see why so many people make a special trip to the main branch just to try this menu.

The conclusion

The culture of the main branch, nurtured together by the shop and its customers – why Inoda is Kyoto’s representative coffee shop

One saying often heard in Rakuchu goes like this: “When a woman marries into the city from the countryside and neighbors say, ‘That bride over there is a good person,’ she hasn’t truly been accepted in Kyoto yet and only when she ceases to be a topic of conversation among the neighbors can she be said to have gained Kyoto’s recognition.
I believe this is the true reason why Inoda Coffee, its flagship store, in particular, has established an unshakable position in Kyoto.

At the beginning of this column, I mentioned that “the main store has unwritten rules.” I can’t help but feel this very phrase reflects Kyoto’s unique exclusivity – the Kyoto people’s temperament, for better or worse, that fixates on the distinction between ‘us’ and ‘them’ – which underpins the main store’s absolute popularity.

The insistence that “this seat is mine” is accepted by others, the tacit sensitivity of both staff and customers toward those who threaten to disrupt the long-established atmosphere – like making phone calls – and the staff’s thoughtful care in never neglecting subtle services for regulars. An unspoken understanding. It is precisely this essence of “Inoda” that makes it beloved and supported by the true Kyoto townspeople, the columnist believes.

Throughout the ages, Kyoto’s townspeople have always loved silently giving special treatment to others – and silently receiving it themselves.
And so, this time, I’ll conclude by “Praising for the Inoda’s Main Store.”
　

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Author

つばくろ(Tsubakuro)
I was born and raised in Kyoto and am a native Kyotoite.
When I was young, I longed to visit Tokyo and Osaka, which are more bustling than Kyoto, but as I have gotten older, I have come to appreciate Kyoto a little more.
In this site, I will introduce you to some of the best places to explore Kyoto's food that you might otherwise miss at first glance.