Senbon Enma-do, Inseki-ji Temple

Lord Ono no Takamura (802-853) is said to have served in the imperial court during the day and in the court of Enma (the King of Hell) at night. The temple which originated when Lord Takamura enshrined King Enma at the head of Suzaku Avenue. Ladies and gentlemen, I am currently at Senbon Enmado Injoji Temple, a place with such history.

There were no one other than me, and the quiet atmosphere dominated the entire premises. Despite being located in the heart of the city, this place exudes an atmosphere that feels like a world apart.
Upon entering the temple grounds, appreciatingly there was a ramp as well.

It appears that the temple is accessible to wheelchair users. People with disabilities can easily enter the temple grounds.
Upon entering the main hall, one is struck by a quiet, almost intimidating presence. And for good reason. The principal image, King Enma, is enshrined in front of the entrance.
The existing statue of King Enma was erected in 1488, and it stands an impressive 2.4 meters tall.
Unfortunately, photo shooting from the front of the main hall is prohibited because it would capture the principal image of King Enma. However, if you look closely inside the main hall, you can indeed see a statue of Enma (the King of Hell).

The King of Enma (Transferred from X)

The main hall is modeled after the ancient palace of King Enma, with King Enma enshrined in the center of the front, the Commander on the right, and the Recorder on the left. The mural is the largest existing panel painting of hell in Japan, and was painted by Kano Mitunobu and others during the Muromachi and Momoyama periods.

Lord Takamura, who served in the court of Enma, received the ritual “The Ritual of Welcoming Spirits” from King Enma.
The “Ritual for Welcoming Spirits” is a memorial service that uses memorial tablets to welcome deceased ancestors back into this world for the purpose of purifying the present world. And this Enma-do (Hall of Enma) was built as the fundamental training ground for that practice. It is said that Lord Takamura himself carved the image of King Enma, which is enshrined in the hall.

Following Lord Takamura, in the first year of the Kannin era (1017), Venerable Jokaku a disciple of Genjin, the Head Monk of Mount Hiei who had received the patronage of Fujiwara no Michinaga – named this place “Komyozan Kanki-in Injo-ji” with the intention of establishing it as a place for “guiding all people toward the Buddhist path and founded it as a Buddhist temple.

Well-known events include the February Setubun Festival of Good Fortune, the distribution of simmered konjac (a favorite of Enma-sama, believed to ward off strokes and various illnesses), the May Kyogen performance at Senbon Enma-do, and the August Festival to Welcome the Spirits of the Departed.

For example, Senbon Enma Kyogen. This is one of Kyoto’s three major Nenbutu Kyogen plays, and a key feature is that most of the performances include dialogue (it has been designated as an Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Kyoto City).

Scene from the Kyogen performance at Senbon Enma-do (reposted from X)

The “Welcoming of the Spirits” ceremony held in August is a tradition in which the spirits of ancestors, having received permission from Enma-sama, return to their respective homes. Around this time of year, the shrine attracts many visitors, primarily from the local community. Then, after floating the water-tower tablets and ringing the welcoming bell, we open the doors of the Buddhist altar to welcome “Oshorai-san,” who returns to us carried by the sound of the bell. Then, from the evening of the 15th through the 16th, the “Sending Off the Spirits” ceremony is held once again.

It’s usually a quiet place, but it seems to draw a large crowd whenever there’s an event. Looking from the photo from X, I can really sense how bustling it is with so many people. Although there was no one there during this visit, I’ll count it as a success since I was able to see the majestic figure of the King Enma.

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Author

Jubei
Hello everyone. I am Jubei, an earthling whose energy does not stop today. What I like is playing (manga, movies, music (J-Rock, etc.) and visiting cafes). Thank you for your understanding.